Ullswater

Lake District National Park

Designated on 9 May 1951

The jewel in England’s rural crown, home of poets and wild men, the Lake District has inspired story and song for generations. It’s the home of England’s highest mountain, its deepest lake and its largest lake, as well as countless tarns, dubs, rivers and streams that fill the views from its peaks with shimmering light. 

In this guide, we take a look at some of the places to enjoy its scenery, history and culture, from terrifying ridges and lung-busting climbs, to wrestling matches, pencils, puddings and gentle trips in burnished wooden boats that chug from shore to shore.

Walking

Buttermere Loop (North/West)

Start/endpoints: Hassness bus stop

Buttermere Loop (North/West)

Start/endpoints: Hassness bus stop

Distance: 4.5 mi, elevation: 560ft, difficulty rating: 2/5

Start/endpoints: Hassness bus stop

Apart from the chance of a little mud and one short section on a B road, this is an easy loop that gives you some stunning views without too much climbing. You’ll be looking AT the peaks rather than from them, but Buttermere’s beauty means you don’t miss out and you get to pass through the Hassness Tunnel, a passage cut into a rock wall that would otherwise block the path. You can start from Buttermere or Gatesgarth, but this is a very popular route so either go early or take the Stagecoach 77 bus out of town (towards Gatesgarth) and get off at the Hassness/Dalesgarth Guest House stop. A little way down the road towards Gatesgarth you’ll find a footpath to the lake from which you can join the trail at what everyone starting from town would call its midpoint.

Cat Bells in the Lake District

Catbells from Keswick (NORTH)

Start/endpoints: Hawse End Landing Stage

Cat Bells in the Lake District

Catbells from Keswick (NORTH)

Start/endpoints: Hawse End Landing Stage

Distance: 3.5mi Elevation: 1480ft  Difficulty rating 3/5

Start/endpoints: Hawse End Landing Stage

From Keswick, you can walk a gentle circuit around Derwentwater, looking out at the islands which dot its surface from shady viewpoints. If you fancy something a little more demanding though, hop aboard a launch from town and jump out at Hawse End. From here, the path takes you up Skelgill Bank in a series of switchbacks, before tracking along a ridge then climbing again to the summit of Catbells. A slight loop on the way down brings you back along the lake shore and you can always take a boat back to Keswick from either High or Low Brandlehow if Hawse End feels like a few steps too far.

Grassmere in the Lake District

Staveley and Gurnal dubs (SOUTH)

Start/endpoints: More? bakery

Grassmere in the Lake District

Staveley and Gurnal dubs (SOUTH)

Start/endpoints: More? bakery

Distance: 6.5mi  Elevation: 889ft  Difficulty rating: 2/5 

Start/endpoints: More? bakery

Staveley is in the south-east corner of the park, which isn’t its most mountainous region, so this is a short and easy hike which makes a perfect morning send off if you’re travelling home south and want to grab a last bit of lakes before you go. The dubs (possibly from Danish dyb, meaning deep, but used in Scots to refer to muddy puddles) is a small man-made lake fed by mountain streams and isolated from the major rivers, making it free of the water quality problems which sadly afflict some of the major lakes. In a few hours, you can hike out, swim for a bit and be back at the More? bakery, where artisanal pastry and superb coffee will make this the perfect end to your trip.

HELVELLYN (CENTRAL/NORTH)

Start/endpoints: Glenridding

HELVELLYN (CENTRAL/NORTH)

Start/endpoints: Glenridding

Distance 9.5mi  Elevation: 3250ft Difficulty rating 5/5

Start/endpoints: Glenridding

If lake loops and footpaths aren’t for you, then take on one of the Lake District’s most intimidating routes. If you’re visiting in school holidays this is one of the few “big hikes” that you might find less crowded, as it’s pretty challenging and will warn off a lot of casual strollers. For much of the route, it’s little different to a lot of ascents in the Lakes, but where it gets interesting is Striding Edge. The traverse across the razor-thin ridge is a bit of a scramble but while it isn’t very technical, the drop to the side can make your head spin. The whole hike, as with most mountain walks of course, is one to attempt only in decent visibility and a favourable forecast. If you’re feeling really energetic, throw in detours on the descent to Lower Man or Catstye Cam for some stunning viewpoints.

FAIRFIELD HORSESHOE (CENTRAL/ SOUTH)

Start/Endpoints: Rydal Road car park, Ambleside

FAIRFIELD HORSESHOE (CENTRAL/ SOUTH)

Start/Endpoints: Rydal Road car park, Ambleside

Distance: 10mi  Elevation: 3543ft  Difficulty rating: 4/5 

Start/Endpoints: Rydal Road car park, Ambleside

A double ridge climb that’ll test your thighs on the way up and your knees on the way down (or rather ways, plural), this is a classic piece of Lake District hiking, with breathtaking views your reward for perseverance. There are some boggy sections, some scrambling and potential for getting lost, especially when coming off the summit of Fairfield itself and doubly so if the fog rolls in. It’s well worth taking a compass! After a descent via Nab Scar, you find yourself back on the level and only a short amble from Ambleside. There are several good pubs but coming from the north, you’ll reach the Golden Rule or The Flying Fleece first, and you’re not going to want to keep walking, are you?

Other things to do

This neolithic monument is a striking sight, with the ring of rocks mirrored by the surrounding peaks, making it feel like the stone circle is the stage in a vast amphitheatre. Speculation about its original purpose runs the traditional gamut from trading post to important ritual site, but the latter definitely suits it better. It’s a couple of miles from town and the walk involves some short on-road sections which can be a little hairy in busy times. A winter visit, with morning frost glittering on the stones and snow on the peaks, is a quieter and far more evocative affair.
A disused slate quarry might not sound like a must-see destination, but Cathedral Cavern is pretty special. Gifted to the National Trust by Beatrix Potter (who came to own the land, rather than being a miner in her spare time) it’s a fascinating piece of history but also an eerily beautiful spot. A large square hole in the rock lets a dramatic shaft of light fall into the massive central chamber and the narrow corridors cut to it make you wonder how it felt to work the old mine. It’s a popular spot, but a sensitive one, with visitor numbers often causing issues, with erosion and litter, but mostly with traffic at the small parking areas a couple of miles from the site. It’s definitely another one best enjoyed midweek, in term time, when your lonely voice will echo from the cavern walls.
From the slate of Cathedral Cavern to the graphite (via lead) of Derwent Pencil Museum, a curious treasure trove of sharp insights and the home of the very first pencil. Located at the northern end of town and with its own cafe, it’s easy to tie it into a walk along the banks of the Greta, as a quieter alternative to a lakeside stroll. Inside, you’ll find the WWII pencils with hidden maps, the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee pencil and an eight-metre long example of the craft. 
The famous poet and his sister Dorothy lived in this little cottage in Grasmere for many years and the surrounding countryside inspired some of his most famous verses. The house (and now museum) have been decorated with snippets of his work and her journal, bringing the place to life around you, but it’s outside that you feel the magic. There are signed walks taken directly from Dorothy’s records and the grounds are still a peaceful and inspiring place, where you can imagine poets idling under every tree.
In 1869, G. Birkett beat hot favourite W. Greenop, aka The Langdale Antelope, in a Guides Race at the annual Grasmere Sheep Fair, which was already an important social occasion. The following year, the sporting element having somehow been deemed more interesting than the livestock, the two were held on separate dates. Now, almost a century and a half later, the Lakeland Sports and Show at Grasmere holds Cumbrian and Westmorland wrestling, fell races, tugs of war and dog shows. It’s held towards the end of August and, even if you don’t take part, it’s a beautiful snapshot of Lakes life.
The quality of the water in the Lake District is an issue of some controversy, with farm and industrial waste making some of the lakes themselves unsafe for swimming. If you’re after a refreshing (possibly shocking) dip though, climbing to pools high up in the hills is a rewarding and energising experience. Tongue Pot in Eskdale is probably the most famous and popular, being served by a fairly simple walk, but Whorneyside Force, reached by a four-mile walk from the Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel, is worth making the trip to. A half-hour journey on the the 516 bus from Ambleside will drop you right outside the hotel and you can set off right from there, towel at the ready. The moderate hike, followed by the sight of the waterfall crashing down as you drift in the pool is an unmissable experience.
The team at Orca Canoes can rent you a canoe for a gentle paddle on Ullswater and a lovely day out, but that’s not the really fun bit. Leave just a little space in your bag and enrol on one of their canoe building courses, which sees you taking home your very own vessel after just a three-day workshop. Their team of craftspeople take you through the process of shaping, constructing and sealing your canoe, which can be done even if you have no prior experience of woodworking.

DID YOU KNOW?
The Lake District, in its entirety, is a World Heritage Site because of its internationally famous landscape and rich cultural background, which stretches back to the Romantic poets like William Wordsworth and Robert Southey

© Lauren Simmonds

DID YOU KNOW?
There’s actually only one body of water called a lake in the Lake District - Bassenthwaite Lake. The others are all meres, waters and so on. It’s a sneaky technicality and a handy one to keep in your back pocket for pub quizzes.

© Jon Roberts

A QUICK HISTORY LESSON

The Lake District is unquestionably the most popular National Park in the UK, beloved by travellers from around the world, but it wasn’t always so. Early modern visitors considered it an intimidating landscape, with Celia Fiennes commenting on the ”inaccessible high rocky barren hills which hang over one’s head in some places and appear very terrible” in the diary of her ride up and down the length of England in 1698.

Around 30 years later, Daniel Defoe called Westmorland’s landscape, “the wildest, most barren and frightful of any that I have passed over in England, or even Wales,” a sleight which probably didn’t endear him to the Welsh. Then, towards the end of the 18th century, with war making Europe a less enticing place to travel, the Lake District came into its own. In 1778 Thomas West produced A Guide to the Lakes, which listed a number of particularly striking viewpoints he called “stations”. These then became so busy that buildings were erected at some of them to facilitate visitors, which just goes to show you can’t blame Instagram for everything. The remains of Claife Station can still be found on Windemere’s western shore.

After another 30 years, Wordsworth enters the scene. With a notable lack of creativity for a renowned poet, he published his own Guide to the Lakes in 1810, and its rampant popularity helped make the region the nation’s wild darling. It was designated a National Park in May 1951, a month after the Peak District, and has been synonymous with natural beauty and outdoor freedom ever since. 

PLANNING YOUR VISIT

The main stations are Penrith, Windermere and Oxenholme, with Windermere being the most central. In terms of driving, the Lake District’s popularity is a blessing and a curse. Traffic can be terrible in peak season, but a good bus service has developed in an attempt to counter the problem. There are regular Stagecoach routes as well as seasonal options like the Cross Lakes Experiences and the 78 Borrowdale open top.
If you can possibly avoid the school holidays, you’ll save yourself a lot of frustration with full ferries, busy cafes and restaurants, and driving around looking for somewhere to park, and that’s once you’ve crawled along on the M5 for a while. You’ll also get to see the Lakes in a totally different way, as a place of peace and stillness, especially in the depths of winter. If you are going at peak times, public transport could be better for you, the park itself and the communities within it.
Alongside the standard sound advice to take navigation aids with you and keep a very close eye on the weather when you’re climbing any mountain, it’s worth remembering a simple fact – it rains a lot here. If it didn’t, as locals will cheerfully tell you, it’d be called The Big Hole in the Ground District instead. Even at the height of summer, throwing a waterproof in your bag is essential.
Agriculture and industry have had a devastating effect on the waters of the Lake District. It’s something we frequently focus on in our work. If you’re planning on swimming or otherwise coming into contact with the water, check the area for recent news on the cleanliness of the water or head to www.sewagemap.co.uk. If in doubt, stay out.

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Main image: Ulswater © Rod Hutchinson