Peak District National Park

Designated on 17 April 1951

The Peak District is a place of history and heritage, where millstones lie in the fields and pathways across scenic hillsides are studded with pieces of old factory floors. Within its boundaries lie chalklands and moors, caves and woodlands, winding river valleys and storied, stunning heights. It was the UK’s first National Park, designated as the culmination of a huge and passionate campaign to preserve a piece of the countryside for the enjoyment of all. It was also the place where Campaign for National Parks was born, arising from that same campaign to continue the work of a small group of pioneers.

In this guide, we pick out just a few of the things we love the Peaks for, from the challenging heights of Stanage Edge to easy rambles along the Monsal Trail, the grandeur of Chatsworth House, the simplicity of a chip butty and the never-ending list of excuses to indulge in Bakewell’s famous export. We hope it’ll lead you to a lifetime of trekking to trigs, edging up Ethels, peering into caves, splashing in rivers and falling for the Peaks as much as we have.

Walking

The Roaches and Lud’s Church (west)

Start/endpoints: The Roaches UKC parking, Lud’s Church car park

The Roaches and Lud’s Church (west)

Start/endpoints: The Roaches UKC parking, Lud’s Church car park

Distance: 7.1 mi, elevation: 1,230 ft, difficulty rating: 3/5

Start/endpoints: The Roaches UKC parking, Lud’s Church car park

This is a perfect introduction to the myth and majesty of the Peak District. The Roaches is the name given to the craggy ridge that rises above Leek and Tittesworth Reservoir, known for its unusual rock formations and spooky legends. Don’t tarry around Doxley Pool, near the top of the ridge, as you may fall prey to the local malevolent mermaid, famous for ensnaring walkers! The mossy trench known as Lud’s Church is another important piece of local history, reputed to have been a hideout for Robin Hood and his band of merry men. Whether the stories are true or not, this spectacular walk is sure to delight.

 

Lathkill Dale (central)

Start/endpoints: Monyash

Lathkill Dale (central)

Start/endpoints: Monyash

Distance: 6-7 mi, 455ft, difficulty rating 2/5

Start/endpoints: Monyash

This is likely to be one of the quietest walks you take in the Peak District, but a lovely one nonetheless, as it skips the hotspots while being accessible enough to work into your day. The route takes you up through a chiselled limestone gorge to a low, wide waterfall, which pools perfectly for wild swimming if you’re feeling brave. The whole area you pass through is a nature reserve, bustling with life. The narrow valley frames the views all the way, making you feel as if you’re really getting under the skin of the park. The walk won’t be too challenging if it’s dry, but can be flooded and muddy if the weather’s been heavy, so check conditions before you set off.

Dovedale Circular (south)

Start/endpoints: NT car park, Dovedale

Dovedale Circular (south)

Start/endpoints: NT car park, Dovedale

Distance: 7.2 mi, elevation: 1,444 ft, difficulty rating: 3/5

Start/endpoints: NT car park, Dovedale

The Dovedale Circular is one of the most popular walks in the Peak District, and it’s certainly not hard to see why. The route is a little strenuous, but the rewards are abundant: expect spectacular panoramic views, impressive natural caves known as the Dove Holes, and unusual rock formations such as the Tissington Spires. The River Dove snakes through the valley and is a popular spot for trout fishing. Marvel at the remarkable limestone features of the Peak District, and enjoy one of the region’s best circular walks.

Digley Reservoir (north)

Start/endpoints: Digley reservoir south car park

Digley Reservoir (north)

Start/endpoints: Digley reservoir south car park

Distance: 5.3 mi, Elevation: 981ft, difficulty rating 2/5

Start/endpoints: Digley reservoir south car park

Easy terrain and some lovely stretches along the water make this a very pleasant walk with enough of a climb to make you feel like you’ve earned a good lunch afterwards. You start in woodland, hugging the edge of the reservoir, before heading up onto the moors alongside Marsden Clough and following the trail until it drops you back through farmland to the car park.

The Monsal Trail (central)

Start/endpoints: Bakewell or Blackwell Mill

The Monsal Trail (central)

Start/endpoints: Bakewell or Blackwell Mill

8.5mi, elevation: minimal, difficulty rating: 1/5

Start/endpoints: Bakewell or Blackwell Mill

You won’t be alone on the Monsal Trail, but that’s one of its attractions. The old railway line has been converted into a multi-purpose route where walkers, cyclists and horse riders all share the trail amicably. The former stations have become cafés and the path is smooth and flat, making it perfect for families and anyone who isn’t up for scrambling on rocky slopes or climbing windblown peaks. You can join the trail at many points along its length, although finishing in Bakewell and rewarding yourself with the eponymous pudding is certainly recommended.

Peaklass-Youlgrave-River-Bradford

More walks

Explore the Peak District on foot

Other things to do

What to get up to you when you’re all hiked out
Get under the skin of The Peak District, literally, with a trip to some of its many caves. Don’t worry if you’re not too keen on squeezing yourself through tiny gaps in a hard hat though, because while serious caving tours (like the boat trips through Speedwell Cavern) are on offer, there are plenty that can be explored on walks without need for expertise, gear or panic attacks. Thor’s Cave (south), near Wetton is the largest cave you can visit in the Peaks without paying for a tour and lies on the route of a lovely 5-mile loop down the Manifold Valley. The rocks at the entrance are worn smooth from the footfall of visitors, but being able to go whenever you please means the chance to have the place to yourself if you’re lucky. Wolfscote Dale Cave (central) is a scenic spot to take a break (or shelter) as you walk another five miler from Hartington that takes you through three Derbyshire dales, while Robin’s Hood Cave (north) can be discovered while taking on the 23-mile Nine Edges hike or lots of shorter routes that start from the Upper Burbage Bridge.
You’ll come across the Peaks’ industrial history everywhere you go, but you can dip just a little further back on a trip to this neolithic site. It’s considered an interesting northern outlier of what is usually a southern myth – that of women being turned to stone as punishment for dancing. Some believe that the story travelled up with Cornish miners relocating to the area, themselves drawing on an older Breton tradition. The stone circle is most easily accessed from Birchover about 1.5km away and can also be combined with visits to a henge at Arbor Low and the burial mound at Hob Hurst’s House for a whole day spent in the deep and distant past.
It may seem cliche to suggest it, but Bakewell’s pastry treat is famous for a reason and you can’t miss the chance to sample it while you’re nearby. Plenty of places in town make and sell it, but if you’re looking for the old, original Bakewell pudding, you might want to try The Old Original Bakewell Pudding Shop, which has been purveying pudding for over 160 years and still makes it to the same secret recipe. Let’s quickly clear up that nagging confusion in your mind. Bakewell pudding = puff pastry, jam, custard. Bakewell Tart = shortcrust pastry, frangipane, icing. They both = deliciousness.
In the same way that some people love power stations, others love a good dam and Derwent is a fine example. A small visitor centre sells basic refreshments and it’s even surprisingly well-served by public transport, with the dramatically 257 Hulleys of Baslow running right to the car park. On a pleasant and unchallenging 4.5-mile circular, you can take in the striking views from the foot of the broad cascade and at the upper level, where the towers of the dam wall reflected in the water. If you have a bit more time, you can head over to Ladybower reservoir, where giant stone plugholes are a curious sight when it’s dry, but a spectacular one when there’s been heavy rain and they’re doing their job of draining excess water through purpose-built tunnels into the river Derwent. 
Even if you just wander through the parklands, Chatsworth is a pleasant place to spend an afternoon, but there’s plenty more to do and much of that is indoors, so it’s a good one to keep in your back pocket for a rainy day. The sculpture and art, acquired by the generations of the Devonshire family that have called Chatsworth home, is truly stunning and a multi-media guide can be rented to help you learn as you marvel at the ceiling frescoes and halls filled with marble statuary. You can also drop into Chatsworth Kitchen for lunch or to pick up provisions crafted by a range of local makers, bakers and artisans.

Did you know? There are 95 Ethels
In 2021, The Peak District’s 95 hills over 400m in height were named Ethels, after the campaigner Ethel Haythornthwaite, who was instrumental in the creation of the National Park itself. To get started ticking them off, download the Ethel Ready app for details and walking routes.

Did you know? About the well-dressed wells...
If you’re in the Peaks from May to September, you might catch sight of large, colourful mosaics made from natural materials such as flowers and bark, surrounding fountains and wells all through the area. The tradition has its roots in the pagan practice of well worship, which involved slightly gorier offerings. First the Romans “civilised” the practice, then the church and Cromwell both tried to stamp it out, but the purity of the water was something that people felt drawn to celebrate, especially when it saved whole villages from the Black Death. So, well dressing is still going strong and the striking tableaux, painstakingly worked on clay slabs over months, now form a historic part of the July cultural festival in Buxton.

Well dressing in Stoney Middleton © Fliss Dowding

A quick history lesson

Contrary to popular belief, The Kinder Scout Mass Trespass of 1932 was not the inspiration for National Parks. The idea that the countryside should be for everyone goes back much further than that, arguably beginning with writers like Wordsworth, who considered The Lake District “a sort of national property, in which every man has a right and interest who has an eye to perceive and a heart to enjoy”. Rather than being the result of one spontaneous action, the campaign to establish them was far more considered and long fought. 

Public pressure for the dedication of national landscapes began to grow in the early 1900s and in the 30s three organisations – The Countryside Charity, the Ramblers and the Youth Hostel Association – came together to form the Standing Committee for National Parks, with the activist and campaigner Ethel Haythornthwaite a major driving force.

They lobbied tirelessly for the creation of the park, mobilising huge numbers of volunteers to undertake surveys of the proposed boundaries. Despite the looming threat of war in Europe as the decade drew to a close, Ethel refused to let the idea be sidelined and, in 1949, the National Parks Act was passed. The next two years saw more boundary wrangling, more fightback and then finally the designation of the UK’s first National Park, on 17 April 1951.

Ethel would go on to have her name enshrined on the peaks themselves and as for the Standing Committee for National Parks? It had a slight name change and became… us! We are enormously proud to continue the work that Ethel and her tireless group began, protecting the National Parks so that everyone can enjoy them for generations to come.

 

Kinder Scout Mass Trespass

Kinder Scout Mass Trespass © Working Class Movement Library

Hang on! What was Kinder Scout then?

The Kinder Scout Mass Trespass was organised when the British Workers’ Sports Federation (BWSF), which organised walks and cycling trips for young workers from Manchester and surrounding mill towns, was turned back by the gamekeepers of private estates on a walk in 1932. Some of those who took part were arrested and imprisoned, which caused massive public outcry. The event was crucial to the formation of the Right to Roam campaign and the Rights of Way Act.

Did you know? The holes are history...
Some of the flagstone pathways in the Peak District are made with stones that came from local factory floors. You can spot them by the small, often rectangular, holes in the stone which the feet of machinery used to slot into.

Burbage Edge © Daniel Kay

Planning your visit

The Peak District is very well served by public transport, with a railway that runs roughly across its middle in a line just south of Sheffield and Manchester, stopping at five stations within the park. From east to west, these are:  Grindleford, Hathersage, Bamford, Hope and Edale. If you’re staying central within the park, these are good dropoff points, while for more northerly or southerly access it might be easier to get buses from the major cities. Year-round services are operated by Stagecoach, Hulleys and High Peak buses starting from Sheffield, Buxton, Chesterfield, Derby and Matlock.
While the Peaks are walked by thousands of people every year, this is still mountainous terrain and there are always risks. Make sure you check trail maps thoroughly, are properly equipped and are ready for a turn in the weather.
If you can visit outside peak times (pun half intended) you’ll find quieter trails and, if you’re driving in the area, car parks. Some sites have roadside parking only or small facilities and can fill up quickly on busy days, so make early starts or come off season to avoid the crowds.
We could have made this guide 100 times longer than it is and still not covered everything there is to do in the Peak District, but if you want more to go on, just ask the locals. People in the Peaks are rightly proud of their history, heritage and the beautiful land in which they live. They’ll be happy to give you some pointers.

Back to all National Parks

 

Main image: Mam Tor © Chris Hepburn