Designated on 18 October 1951
Shaped delicately for millenia by the forces of nature, then transformed in centuries by the slate industry and agriculture, Eryri is a living tapestry of human history and natural beauty. It’s a stronghold of Welsh language and culture, a destination for hikers and seekers of solitude. It contains nine mountain ranges, 15 peaks over 3000ft and everything from whisky distilleries to miniature sculpture gardens scattered among its craggy valleys.
As the third National Park to receive the designation in the UK, it has been visited for years, but beyond the popular Yr Wyddfa with its leg-sparing train, are swathes of wild and rugged countryside where comparatively few people tread. In this short guide, we’ve put together some walking routes, eateries and stories to help you plan a visit to Eryri and dive deep into the past, from ancient cairns to ethereal quarries, while sampling some of its thriving present in community pubs and foodie towns.
Start/endpoints:Parc Meurig, Bethesda
Start/endpoints:Parc Meurig, Bethesda
Distance: 11mi elevation: 780ft difficulty rating: 4/5
Start/endpoints:Parc Meurig, Bethesda
The full length of the 83-mile Snowdonia Slate Trail, created in 2018, might be a little more than you feel like taking on, so chalk off a section of it with an easily accessible northern leg from Bethesda. The hike to the lovely little town of Capel Curig takes you past the ethereal landscape of the old Penrhyn quarry, one of the many slate mining sites that have shaped Snowdonia. As you head south and east, you dip into the bowl of the Nant Ffancon valley, before passing between the peaks of Pen yr Ole Wen and Tryfan, which loom on either side of you like sentinels guarding the path. You can make this route an out-and-back by turning round whenever you’re halfway through your supply of Welsh cakes, but if you time it right, you can idle through the whole 11 miles and catch the bus from Capel Curig back to Bethesda. Sunday service is slightly reduced of course, but there’s an evening run at around 7pm.
Image: Tryfan © Marc Lock
Start/endpoints: Dyffryn Ogwen car park
Start/endpoints: Dyffryn Ogwen car park
Distance: 6mi Elevation: 2,425ft Difficulty rating: 4/5
Start/endpoints: Dyffryn Ogwen car park
While this isn’t a long walk, it’s a challenging one thanks to the climb and some tricky footing, which isn’t surprising given that “Glyderau”, a term for the linked peaks the route takes in, derives from a word meaning “heap of stones.” It’s also not very clearly marked, so definitely one for the more experienced mountain hiker. The reward for all the climbing and scrambling though, is to find yourself in a remarkable setting, where jagged rocks erupt from ridges in dramatic formations, including the much photographed and surprisingly not man-made cantilevered stone. The circular walk brings you back down along the lower slopes of Tryfan, past the water of Llyn Bochlwyd, with the land shading back into colour as you leave the grey expanse above.
Image: Castell Y Gwynt © Marc Lock
Start/endpoint: Beddgelert
Start/endpoint: Beddgelert
Distance: 1mi Elevation: none Difficulty rating:1/5
Start/endpoint: Beddgelert
Eryri may contain no fewer than nine mountain ranges, but sometimes all you want is a pleasant stroll by the river before lunch, so here’s a simple, scenic route that won’t have you reaching for your compass and laminated maps. A wide, level footpath runs out of the village Beddgelert past the Church of St Mary, said to have been built incorporating parts of a 13th-century Augustinian priory that stood on the site. You’ll soon reach your destination, the monument to Gelert, a dog whose sad legend is to have been wrongfully killed by Prince Llywelyn, having been suspected of attacking the prince’s son when he had in fact protected him from a wolf. As you head for home, there’s a chance, which you should most certainly take, to detour for views of the gorge of Aberglaslyn Pass before you follow the path back into the village.
Start/endpoint: Barmouth
Start/endpoint: Barmouth
Distance: 1.5mi Elevation: 840m Difficulty rating 2/5
Start/endpoint: Barmouth
Alongside the industrial heritage of the park lies another piece of history – the first piece of land ever donated to the National Trust. In 1895, Fanny Talbot, a friend of the Trust’s founders, made the momentous decision to secure 5 acres of her land above Barmouth for posterity and the public. Thankfully, after climbing up to that tiny initial patch, you’re now looking down on extensive National Trust lands and vast swathes of Eryri, all protected and preserved. The walk itself is short but steep, winding up through the town to the crest of the hill, with the coastal location giving you fine sea views, a rare treat on Eryri’s popular walks, most of which are further inland. Stop for a moment at the National Trust’s centenary monument, then drop back down into Barmouth and browse the town’s range of pubs and restaurants.
Start/endpoint: Tŷ Nant car park
Start/endpoint: Tŷ Nant car park
Distance: 6mi Elevation: 703m Difficulty rating: 4/5
Start/endpoint: Tŷ Nant car park
Cadair Idris (meaning “Chair of Idris”) was so named for a giant who supposedly made a seat out of the mountains. It’s steeped in folklore and legend including, of course, having ties to the ubiquitous King Arthur, who would appear to have fought and died just about everywhere in Eryri if you believed all the stories at once. The views of cliffs reaching up beside you and lakes sparkling below are some of the most breathtaking in Wales, if not the whole of the UK, but it’s a thigh-burning hike to the top. The continuous climb goes over some rocky terrain, hence the high difficulty rating, but the path is easy to follow, at least visually! While you can turn this into a circular walk with a little confidence and good navigation skills, this common out-and-back route along the Pony Path doesn’t mean missing out at all.
Start/endpoint: Dolmelynllyn car park
Start/endpoint: Dolmelynllyn car park
Distance: 2mi Elevation: minimal Difficulty rating: 1/5
Start/endpoint: Dolmelynllyn car park
The beauty of waterfall walks is that they can be even more spectacular when it’s raining, or at least has been recently. If the morning’s a little wet, then a dash to the Rhaeadr Ddu waterfall would be perfect to give your afternoon a bit of magic. The path, a mix of tarmac and some rougher sections which can get tricky with mud or slippery rocks, takes you along the river Gamlan, where outcrops send the water churning and crashing down the valley. Navigation isn’t an issue, not least because in all but the driest times, you’ll hear the falls before you see them, a wonderful sight that’s always different depending on the light, time of year and conditions.
Crib Goch © Rachel RobertsDID YOU KNOW?
Nine mountain ranges fall within the boundaries of Eryri. The Carneddau, Glyderau, Snowdon, Moelwynion, Rhinogydd, Dyfi Hills, Moel Hebog range, Cadair Idris range and the Aran range, with a total of 15 peaks higher than 3,000 feet between them, making it arguably the UK’s pointiest National Park.
If you’re staying in the far north-west corner of the Park, or even based outside it in Llandudno, then Malwen Store (open Thu-Sun), just outside Rowen, is a great place to stock up on ingredients or get a morning coffee. Partnership with a local artisanal baker in Betws-y-Coed adds a superb range of sweet treats to their menu too.
Yes, the whole town! Llanberis is one of those places that knows its business, which is keeping hikers fed. So take a deep breath… Cafe Melyn has a lovely atmosphere, Ceiros’ baristas make the best coffee in Wales although it’s not really a sit-down place, Caffi Caban and Lone Tree Cafe do great breakfasts, Pete’s Eats are lovely for lunch and a local beer, The Heights is a good-value pub and Georgio’s (closed in winter) has incredible ice cream.
Not quite Llanberis levels of eatery profusion, but this little town has a couple of lovely gems. Alpine Cafe’s signature Alpine Blend tea is a warming, soothing masterpiece of leafcraft, which we’re sure is a thing, while Hangin’ Pizzeria is a fun and funky place to refuel after a day exploring in the Park.
If you’re taking on the Watkin Path - the steeper, scarier, scramble-filled route to the top of Yr Wyddfa - you’ll find this little cafe perfectly positioned as a start/endpoint. It doesn’t rest on its locational laurels though, with superb sourcing and crafting meaning that everything from the coffee to the pasties will lift your heart, whatever you’re feeling about the trail.
When The Pengwern in Llan Ffestiniog closed in 2009, many feared that it would never open its doors again, a fate that befalls a saddeningly large number of rural pubs. Then the community rallied round and, with the help of tireless fundraising and some government support, they bought, restored and finally reopened, in 2011. It’s now a proper local hub, with great food, a lovely atmosphere and some rooms for guests.
Just to the south of Dinas Mawddwy, you’ll see a couple of unassuming black huts by the roadside. It might be small, but it packs a big punch, with superb coffee and a beautiful setting that makes for a great start to the day. Get your caffeine fix before you head to any of the nearby peaks or go east to Lake Vyrnwy for the sculpture trail, watersports and boating.
This charming hotel serves a scrupulously seasonal menu and has some lovely rooms if you need somewhere to base yourself. It sits at the inland end of The Mawddach Trail, which runs along disused railway lines down the banks of the Mawddach estuary and the hotel was, in fact, part of an old station itself.
Penmachno © Marc LockDID YOU KNOW?
The lush habitat known as Celtic Rainforest (sometimes Atlantic or Temperate Rainforest) is thought by some to be rarer than its tropical counterpart. There are a few pockets of Celtic Rainforest in Eryri, but one of the best places to see it is next to the Coed Cymerau National Nature Reserve near Blaenau Ffestiniog, where you can enjoy a relatively level circular walk.
Eryri, or Snowdonia as it was then, is only a few months younger than the Peaks or Lakes as a National Park, receiving its designation in October of 1951, compared to April and May for its older siblings. While it’s tempting to assume that the Park’s name was something to do with Lord Snowdon, it was in fact the modernised version of the old English for “snow hill”, first recorded as Snawdune in 1095. But Eryri has always been a stronghold of the embattled Welsh language, which is spoken by 58% of the area’s population, and after much petitioning and lobbying in the 2010s, the Welsh name was formally adopted. Eryri is a remarkable tapestry of human history, both ancient and modern, from neolithic cairns to slate mines that have shaped the contours of the land, but it’s also a haven for nature. There are a staggering number of SSSIs and protected conservation areas, home to many rare species. With settlements concentrated in a few places, it offers a perfect balance of easy access and true wilderness which rewards the hardier hiker.
Ogwen Valley © Marc LockDID YOU KNOW?
Much of The Mabinogi, a series of ancient tales gathered from sources in the 11th, 12th and 13th centuries (probably themselves drawing on older oral traditions), is set in what would become Eryri. They follow the exploits of Pryderi, whose adventures bring him into contact with all sorts of magical characters and, of course, that relentless limelight-hog, King Arthur. Just don’t call it The Mabinogion, which was an incorrect pluralisation introduced by Lady Charlotte Guest, who curated an edition of the tales in the mid 19th century.
A trip to Eryri doesn’t have to mean living in Goretex for three days and never standing still. Take it a little easier with the train up Yr Wyddfa, where you get the same views as the red-faced hikers who join you at the peak. Trundle back down and head into Llanberis for ice cream at Georgio’s, then spend the next day indulging in another way, with a tour of the Aber Falls Whisky distillery, with the walk to the cascade itself entirely optional.
Get prepped and plan your routes thoroughly to take on the trickiest trails - The Watkin Path one day and The Glyderau the next. To fuel up for the first, make an early start and get to Caffi Gwynant, then after the second, drag yourselves down to Betws-y-Coed’s Hangin’ Pizzeria for a rewarding meal. Remember, “beetle spotting” (looking for the rare Rainbow Leaf Beetle) is a perfectly acceptable reason to stop and rest during your ascents.
Immerse yourself in the colour, culture and contours of Eryri and make the boggy hike out to the striking cairn at Bryn Cader Faner, then a much easier trip to a more modern community project, Y Pengwern, the pub saved by the efforts of its village. Throw in a trip to the bright facades of Portmerion for a varied few days that sum up Eryri, if any single trip ever could.
Visit Little Italy, the miniature sculpture garden near Corris and walk the gentle paths of the The Mawddach Trail, down the estuary on the old railway lines. If you head north, stop at Tiny Home Coffee on your way to hike Aran Fawddwy, the UK’s highest peak south of Yr Wyddfa, then end the day at George III, for some hearty classic cooking.
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